For those of you who have never surfed and who want to learn, it’s never too late. I’ve even taught a couple of grown men how to ride a wave. In fact, during the course of one summer, my friend, Brant, went from flapping around helplessly to being up and riding, charging down the line. It just takes patience, time, and, like any challenge, you have to really want it.
My suggestion is to pick up either a fun board, an egg board or a light long board. These will all make the learning easier. Head to a beach break, not or reef or around rocks and make sure to stay away from the crowd so you’re not a hazard to other surfers. You have to pay your dues before riding with the big boys.
Don’t paddle all the way to the line up. You need to hang out closer to shore, on the inside or half way out. Practice paddling and finding your center of gravity. You will need to take off on the white wash hundreds of times before you ever try and ride a wave. And don’t try to stand up until you feel the force of the white wash really pulling you up. It’s kind of like riding a bicycle, you can’t ride if you’re not moving!
Some Safety Tips;
- Never jump off the board head first, always jump off belly-flop style because you never know what’s underneath, rock, sandbar, etc.
- Never have your surfboard between you and a wave. Stay to the right or the left of the board.
- If you’re underwater and coming up, always protect your head and face with your hands and arms. You don’t want to catch a fin in the eye.
- Be courteous of other surfers. Hold your board tight to you, don’t let it float loosely on its’ leash. A wave can come along and snap the leash, hitting another surfer.
You might want to hire a professional for the first few sessions while you’re getting your feet wet. Regardless of how you go about it, if you decide to give surfing a try, let me know how it goes. Have an amazing session, get your soul cleansed and stay out of my way!!! You’ll find that once you start, you’ll get the bug. “Only a surfer knows the feeling.”
Coming up on next weeks Tuesday Tip: Surf Etiquette